Did you know that Northumberland boasts more castle sites than any other county in England? The over 70 fortifications are a legacy from the Anglo-Scottish border wars that raged throughout the 14th-16th centuries. I wasn’t aware of this (or had ignored forgotten childhood history lessons) until I recently visited my Dad’s family who live “up north”.
Northumberland isn’t on most tourist’s radars, which is crazy given not only the rich heritage but also its outstanding natural beauty. And of course, an area with so many impressive castles has to have featured in movies and TV shows right? Hogwarts from the ‘Harry Potter‘ series (that’s Alnwick Castle) and Bebbanburg from Netflix’s ‘The Last Kingdom‘ (that’s Bamburgh Castle)! Here’s everything I managed to see and do in just 24 hours touring Northumberland.
BAMBURGH ‘THE KING OF CASTLES‘
There’s been a fortress on this picturesque volcanic rock plateau since the 5th century AD. The Anglo-Saxon kings of Northumbria chose the site as their medieval capital. Bamburghwas the first castle in the world to be destroyed by cannon fire in 1464 during the War of the Roses. Uninhabited parts of the castle that you can visit include the old kitchen, the King’s Hall and the stables. Bamburgh was a filming location for ‘Transformers: The Last Knight‘ and Netflix series ‘The Last Kingdom‘.
To the east of Bamburgh, there’s a view of The Farne Isles where you can observe a puffin colony during nesting season. To the north is Lindisfarne ‘Holy Island’, the setting for another well-known castle (and a location from the Netflix series ‘Reign‘, about Mary Queen of Scots). It’s also a fascinating spot for any Viking history buffs. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time for a boat trip to the Farnes, or a drive across the causeway to Lindisfarne. At least I still have some exciting things to do when I revisit Northumberland in the future.
DUNSTANBURGH CASTLE RUINS
Construction of Dunstanburgh Castle began in 1313 and (like Bamburgh) it was destroyed at the end of the 14th century during the War of the Roses. Those bloody Yorkists, they were always smashing up the best castles. The site was too large and expensive to repair so it was left to decay, which I think only adds to its dramatic appearance.
We walked to the castle from the fishing village of Craster, famous for its oak smoked kippers. On arrival in the village, you can smell the herring smokehouses. Mmmm kippers, you either love ’em or hate ’em – for me it’s luuurve. There’s a longer scenic walk from Craster to Embleton Bay which I definitely would have done given more time.
ALNWICK CASTLE ‘THE WINDSOR OF THE NORTH’
Alnwick is the second largest inhabited castle in England (after Windsor) and one of the most visited. Originally built in 1138 this residence has been home to the Duke of Northumberland’s family (The Percy’s) for over 700 years. Where might you have seen this landmark before? It’s Hogwarts from the first ‘Harry Potter‘ movies and also features in ‘Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves‘, ‘Downton Abbey‘, plus the first season of ‘Blackadder‘.
You could spend an entire day just in Alnwick as there’s loads to do there. My Grandparents live in the town, so I’ve been a few times before and always see or learn something new. Inside the castle, you can visit the State Rooms to admire a vast array of art and antique furniture. Or you can go for Broomstick Training, outside on the very lawn where Harry Potter first learned to fly! I’m defo flying a broomstick next time *ahem nerd.
On this occasion, I walked through The Alnwick Garden and explored the magical treehouse. This massive structure is built from sustainably sourced timber and sits at 18 metres high amongst mature lime trees. Rope bridges and twinkling lights complete The Treehouse’s fairytale effect, so pretty!
WARKWORTH CASTLE (SEMI) RUINS
It’s believed that there’s been a residence following the current castle layout in this location since the early 1200s. However, Warkworth was never fully restored or properly maintained since it was besieged by King Henry IV in 1405. The king apparently had a scrap with the Duke of Northumberland’s ancestors and then, bla bla the War of the Roses and battles with the Scots. Okay, so I’m not a good history teacher but if you ever visit I know people who can make these stories way more interesting for you. Oh and also, scenes from the movie ‘Elizabeth‘, starring Cate Blanchett were shot here.
GETTING TO NORTHUMBERLAND + GETTING AROUND
The easiest route to Northumberland (if you’re London based), is to catch a train from Kings Cross to Newcastle. This journey takes 3 hours and is a lovely way to see the countryside, I highly recommend it. The same rail service goes all the way to Edinburgh, Scotland with stops in York and Durham as well.
I only had 24 hours to cram in as much sightseeing as possible. Luckily for me, my cousin Rob and his parents are local tour operators, so they sorted out the itinerary. If you’re interested in history brought to life with a Harry Potter/Game of Thrones/Vikings theme, and you want an enthusiastic young guide who’ll make any trip FUN, consider Lundgren Tours. Maybe I’m a little biased, but Rob’s won a few tourism awards so it’s not just me who thinks he’s great
Have I convinced you to include touring Northumberland in your UK itinerary? Unspoilt, rugged landscapes, a wealth of history, friendly people and delicious food – it’s truly amazing. Check out everything I packed for this holiday here
By Footloose Freya
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October 5th, 2019
